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Spiegel Bird Dogs

The Secret Power of a Check Cord

Writer's picture: Spiegel BirdDogsSpiegel BirdDogs

After decades of training bird dogs, I've come to appreciate that sometimes the simplest tools are the most powerful. The check cord – a basic length of rope with a specific purpose –  is one of the simplest yet most critical tools in your bird dog training kit. Even in this age of electronic training collars, I find myself reaching for my check cord, especially during that first year of training. Here's what I've learned about this essential tool.


Choosing the Right Check Cord

You want a stiff check cord that won't tangle in the brush. A flexible check cord will wrap around vegetation and become more of a hindrance than a help. When selecting a check cord, you want one with a solid core to gain proper stiffness. The cord should be stiff enough to hold its shape – when you hold the rope with about three feet between your hands, it should maintain an inverted U shape without sagging in the middle. A quality check cord will resist fraying, even after years of use. I've found that newer materials like biothane or Dura-Flex don't work well as check cords; they simply lack the necessary stiffness for proper handling. That said, the cord shouldn't be so stiff that it burns your hands.


In my experience, a 7/16" thick rope of 20 feet is ideal. While many trainers used 12-foot check cords decades ago, and some places now sell cords up to 30 or 50 feet, I find these lengths unnecessary and cumbersome. If you're going to work with one check cord, 20 feet hits the sweet spot.


The best cords actually improve with age. Once they've been soaked and run through dirt, their feel, texture, and stiffness reach an optimal level. I prefer orange check cords since white ones become a dirty brown after breaking in and blend too much with the grass. When working with a dragline in the field, I want to spot my check cord quickly.


Your check cord needs a high-quality snap. These snaps face all weather conditions and must last for years. A high-quality solid brass or bronze snap will serve you well. I advise staying away from cheap snaps and avoiding chrome ones entirely.



Years ago, dog trainers insisted on having bowline (or hondo) knots attached about seven inches from the snap – just the right distance to align with the dog's snout. They taught techniques to flip the check cord quickly, causing the bowline knot to whip into the dog's head for attention. While this was considered a best practice in the late 1970s, with thousands of bird dogs trained this way, I find the practice imprecise and difficult to control. I never use "the flip" to strike my dog's snout or head. Instead of a bowline knot, I prefer a rope clamp to secure the snap – it's more streamlined, doesn't interfere with attaching the check cord to the collar, and resists snagging in the field. If you prefer a check cord with a bowline knot, that's fine, but please don't attempt the flipping technique, especially with Brittanys.


Some trainers like having a knot at the check cord's end to "catch" the rope. You might need gloves and an end knot with a large bird dog. Otherwise, you risk rope-burned hands and losing control of a headstrong dog – teaching them that running hard enough means freedom! As I train Brittanys, I haven't found this necessary. I avoid end knots since they inevitably catch on logs or brush during training. I also skip the gloves, preferring better feel and control with bare hands.


Check cords are a long-term investment, so don't fret about the price. They're relatively inexpensive, last many years, and are indispensable. Buy the best one you can find. I particularly like the Lion Country Supply check cord (LCS Tangleproof Check Cord). While it's one of the less expensive options, that's not why I choose it – it simply meets all my criteria for a good check cord. Gun Dog Supply and Dogs Unlimited also offer excellent solid core check cords.


The Art of Using a Check Cord

The check cord is essential for all yard work and early field training. I use it for "COME," "WHOA," and quartering. In the field, it's crucial for beginning bird work. I handle the rope with my dominant hand, as dexterity, strength, and feel are essential. Timing is critical, and using your dominant hand improves precision.


When working with a young dog, I never drop the check cord. There's no time to catch up and retrieve a dropped cord with puppies – by then, the mistakes have already happened. I keep the cord in my dominant hand and let the other end trail behind rather than holding the remainder in my other hand. With practice and a proper-sized, stiff check cord, you'll find you can control it one-handed, pulling in excess rope or letting out more as needed.


A check cord is the only reliable way I know to control bird introductions in the field. I want to bring the pup cross-wind at the proper distance to catch the scent and point naturally. If the pup gets too close, they might lunge at the bird or even catch it. Too far away, and they'll start creeping toward the bird rather than locking into a natural point. Letting a puppy run freely creates a hit-or-miss training situation. The check cord gives me control and allows for structured training sessions.

 

 As training progresses, you'll start dropping the check cord to use it as a dragline. Most dogs will have training sessions where you decide it's time to hold the check cord again – sometimes, taking a step back is the best way to move forward. A good check cord will serve you well beyond those first puppy field trips. It would take a chapter of a book to fully discuss how the check cord helps with bracework, quartering, recall, retrieving birds, staunching, steadiness to wing, steadiness to shot, whoa, water work – just about everything!

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