How to Teach a Puppy Not to Bite People

Overview

Puppy biting is one of the most common challenges new owners face, but it’s also one of the most misunderstood. Mouthing, nipping, and even hard biting are entirely normal behaviors in young puppies. They explore the world with their mouths, and during teething, chewing provides relief. But while it’s natural, biting people isn’t acceptable, and it’s our job to guide them toward gentler habits.

At Spiegel Bird Dogs, we’ve worked with many litters over the years, and while every puppy is different, a few principles help set the stage for healthy bite inhibition.

The breeder lays the foundation in the first eight weeks, but once the puppy goes home, the responsibility shifts to the owner. The right training approach depends on the puppy. There is no one-size-fits-all answer. Some puppies are sensitive and need soft guidance. Others are bold and need firmer boundaries. What matters most is being calm, consistent, and fair.

For breeders, keeping the litter together through eight weeks allows puppies to learn bite inhibition naturally through sibling play and feedback from the dam. Breeders can also start redirecting biting behavior and teaching early boundaries. But with eight squirming puppies, individual training isn’t feasible. Breeders can’t tailor eight strategies for eight puppies. That’s the owner’s job.

Once home, the owner has one puppy to focus on. That means the training can, and should, be adapted to the dog. Timing is critical. If a puppy bites your hand and you immediately give it a chew toy, you’ve just rewarded the bite. And that’s not training, it’s reinforcement of the wrong behavior. Puppies learn fast. So, we need to be just as quick with our feedback.

Some dogs respond to a firm verbal correction, some to a short withdrawal of attention, and others benefit from redirection to a toy, but only once they’ve stopped biting. A well-timed “Leave it” can be a game-changer. And never use the crate as punishment. The kennel is your dog’s safe place, and it should stay that way.

Most importantly, remember this: every dog is an individual. Your job as the owner is to figure out what works for your dog.

Full Post: What Breeders Can Do and What Owners Must Do

Breeder’s Responsibility: From Birth to Eight Weeks

At Spiegel Bird Dogs, with eight puppies per litter, we don’t have the luxury of tailoring individual correction methods, but we do lay the groundwork for every puppy before they head home.

The early weeks of a puppy’s life are when bite inhibition begins. It happens mostly through natural interaction. Puppies play. One bites too hard. The other yelps and backs off. That’s a lesson. The dam may growl or walk away when a pup bites her while nursing. Another lesson. These moments help teach puppies to control the force of their bite.

A responsible breeder will make sure the litter stays together until eight weeks. During that time, the breeder handles the puppies regularly, introduces them to appropriate chew toys, and begins reinforcing gentle human interaction. If a puppy bites a hand, the breeder might say “No” and stop play. Or simply set the puppy down and walk away. When there are eight puppies, you can’t take eight different approaches. You manage the litter using methods that work on most, and you lay a solid foundation for the owner to build on.

Owner’s Responsibility: After Eight Weeks

1. Redirection, Done Right

One common method is to redirect biting onto a toy. This can be effective, but only if done correctly. You must never hand the puppy a toy immediately after it bites you. Doing that teaches the puppy that biting you leads to getting a toy. It rewards the wrong behavior. Instead, when the puppy bites, stop play immediately. Let your hand go still, say “No,” and wait a beat. Once the puppy settles, even for a second, then offer the toy and praise the puppy for biting that. That’s how you train.

2. Turn and Ignore

Turning your back and walking away from a biting puppy is a simple, effective correction for many dogs. You’re removing what the puppy wants, your attention and engagement. If the puppy is following you and biting at your pants, stop walking, turn away, and cross your arms. Once the biting stops, calmly resume interaction. This method is often most effective with puppies that crave human connection.

3. Verbal Corrections

A firm, well-timed verbal cue can stop a lot of biting. I use “Leave it.” That command applies to anything: my hand, a piece of furniture, a dropped sock. When a puppy hears “Leave it,” they learn to stop and disengage. Timing matters. Say it as the puppy starts to bite, not five seconds later. Don’t raise your voice. A calm, commanding tone is far more effective than yelling.

4. Bite Inhibition Through Feedback

This method involves allowing the puppy to learn how hard is too hard. When a bite hurts, you say “Ouch!” loudly and stop all play. This mimics the feedback the puppy got from its siblings. Some puppies learn quickly this way. Others get more excited when you yelp. If that happens, switch to turning your back or walking away. The goal is to teach the puppy that biting ends all fun.

5. Time-outs Without the Crate

Some people suggest time-outs. I agree, but not in the kennel. The crate must never become a place of punishment. It’s your dog’s den, their safe place. Instead, if your puppy is escalating, you can briefly separate them using a safe setup like a puppy playpen, a gated hallway, or even a clean cardboard box placed nearby. This gives the puppy a moment to settle, away from the excitement, before calmly resuming interaction. The key is to give them a moment to reset, not to banish them.

6. No Hands Toward the Dog

Never swing your hand at a dog’s face. Not in play. Not in correction. Not ever. A hand should always be a source of comfort, not something the dog fears. I hate seeing a dog flinch when a hand reaches toward them. That is not training. That is fear. And fear has no place in your relationship with your dog.

7. Praise for Getting It Right

While I’m not a fan of treat-based training, I believe in praise, real praise. A heartfelt “Good girl” can be more powerful than any snack. My Brittanys love to hear it. They light up when they know they’ve done well. That’s what I want from a dog, not one that behaves to earn a cookie, but one that behaves to earn my approval. Praise the moments your puppy gets it right, and do it with meaning.

8. Know When to Rest

Sometimes, biting escalates not because the puppy is naughty, but because the puppy is tired. Just like toddlers, puppies get cranky. If your puppy is getting mouthier and less responsive, it might be time for a nap. Don’t push through a bad session. Guide the pup to a safe spot with a chew toy and let them rest.

9. Stay Consistent, Stay Calm

Whatever approach you use, stick with it. Use the same cue words. React the same way every time. All members of the household need to be on the same page. Puppies thrive on routine and repetition. If one person lets biting slide and another corrects it, the puppy gets confused. Consistency builds trust. It also speeds up learning.

10. Adapt to Your Dog

This is perhaps the most important part. If what you’re doing isn’t working, change it. Dogs are individuals. What works for one may not work for another. That doesn’t mean you’re failing. It means you’re learning. Don’t keep doing something that’s not effective out of stubbornness. Adaptability is part of consistency, because being consistently ineffective is still ineffective.

Final Thoughts

Training a puppy not to bite isn’t about finding the one magic technique. It’s about understanding your dog, responding in the moment, and shaping behavior over time. Be patient. Be fair. Set clear boundaries. Praise success. Don’t rely on bribes. And don’t ever make your dog fear your hand or their crate.

The breeder gave your puppy a solid foundation. Now it’s up to you to build on it. One day at a time.